Aboard the Lake Express

Old Meets New On Cross-Lake Michigan Ferry

By Bill Semion

The ghostly gray/white Milwaukee Clipper lies aft of me in the September sun as the Lake Express, the 21st century face of cross-lake passenger travel, eases out of its berth on Muskegon Lake’s south shore.
We slowly slip by the Clipper, once one of the proud fleet of ships that made daily crossings between Michigan and Wisconsin. Originally a 1905 wooden steamer, and state-of-the-art when a steel superstructure was added and she was rechristened as the Clipper in 1941, it’s now permanently moored in Muskegon Lake, a national landmark undergoing seemingly permanent restoration by a local group to open it again for tours.
The Clipper may be a relic of the past, but the Lake Express, only one of two ferries that now operate cross Lake Michigan, is the new face of cross-lake travel. This catamaran-style ship is a far cry from the narrow Clipper we’re now passing on our trip to Milwaukee. Rather than a four-plus hour journey, the Express makes the trip in only 2 ½ hours, saving me and thousands of others who’ve climbed aboard her since she went into service in 2004 to save both time and the aggravation that a five-hour-plus battle through the never-ending road construction in and around Chicago brings.
Capable of transporting up to 46 vehicles and trailers and 250 passengers, we idle out of the Muskegon channel past the fleet of salmon fishermen who are always present this time of year. Once clear of the outer pier heads and the dunes of Muskegon State Park, the Lake Express powered up its surprisingly quiet four 3,000-horsepower Detroit Diesels hooked to twin Rolls Royce jet-drives, pushed its two hulls on plane and skimmed across the lake at nearly 40 mph as the Michigan coast faded into the late summer haze.
Only a few minutes before, I had driven my car into the lower deck and locked the doors, while the crew secured it and the other vehicles for the crossing. We then climbed the short flight of stairs to the main passenger deck to sit back and enjoy what would be a very smooth and utterly effortless journey. This, indeed, is the way to go.
Built in Mobile, Ala., the Express is the first high-speed car/passenger ferry to operate on the Great Lakes and within the Continental United States. It’s more like an airplane than a ship. Regular passengers make the journey in aircraft-style seating in a large area amidships.
“Premier-class” passengers have their own cabin, with larger, more comfortable seats and tables, convenient outlets for laptops and free movies. Premier service also includes complimentary steward service and non-alcoholic beverages. Breakfast on our crossing (extra charge) included a breakfast Panini, cereal, or yogurt. Regular passengers can opt for similar items at the cafe. If you’re crossing at lunchtime, menu choices include gilled cheese, Wisconsin bratwurst, turkey or reuben, or burgers. There are kids choices, too. Drinks include coffee, soft drinks and beer.
There’s an upper deck viewing area, which can get windy due to the speed of the crossing, as well as limited open seating at the stern as well.
Flat-screen televisions offer movies, or just lean back, relax and think about all the other travelers rounding Lake Michigan’s horn to face that Chicago traffic. In normal weather, the ship is as stable as the larger Badger, which crosses farther north between Ludington and Manitowoc, gently rocking in the light lake swells. And because of its design, there is very little wake.
The Express also prides itself on keeping the lake it plies clean. It’s earned the Travel Green Wisconsin certification. All waste is taken off the ship once it reaches port. Meals are served on eco-friendly plates, cups and cutlery made from sugarcane and plant starch. And, in partnership with the University of Wisconsin Great Lakes Water Institute, the ship samples air and water quality during each crossing. The company boasts that it takes more than 25,000 vehicles, including trucks, off the road at least for a few hours, each year.
One of the best things you can say about any crossing like this is that it was uneventful, and about 2 1/2 hours into the trip, the Wisconsin shoreline appeared out of the haze, about 90 minutes faster than the Badger up north. An uneventful, and absolutely great, way to cross.

When You Go
The Lake Express runs May through Nov. 1 and takes passengers with and without cars (car rental is available at both Wisconsin and Michigan terminals). Crossing times vary by season. Unlike the coal-fired Badger car ferry, which shuttles between Ludington and Manitowoc to the north, weather can affect the smaller Express’s crossings. For fare information and schedule updates, go to lake-express.com, or call 866-914-1010.